The bar has been raised & they can’t keep up with the shift. It’s not just “ I feel empowered” anymore it’s “ How do we collectively dismantle oppressive systems” and that’s a little too deep for their marketing.
interesting. imho 1 and 2 are boogeymen and 3 is just the result of god's creation, there is no other path, these are natural outcomes not determined by man.
in summary, I don't think this is what 2025 feminism is about, but what do i know.
2. Contemporary French aesthetics are SO cheugy.. nobody talks about how cool/diverse/experimental Parisian street style really is. Having lived there for years the only people embracing "french girl vibes" are Americans
1. I've read everything published about Butterworth's (including Emily's dispatch) -- but I want a restaurant critic to go and tell me about the food (Like when Graydon sent a reporter to review Trump's steakhouse....)
To address 2. I would argue that of the major fashion cities (imo still nyc london paris milan tokyo), paris is actually the least experimental and diverse (milan arguably might be similar) - there's still very much a 'parisian style' (all black/dark blue, brands like apc balibaris officine generale etc). The idea of "french girl vibes" (think beret and mariniere) is definitely all americans, but parisians very much stick to their uniform for the most part.
Do we think Tokyo is the GOAT when it comes to experimenting? I feel like London is good at this too, but also a lot of fun is happening in Mexico as well as LATAM.
Been living in Tokyo for eight years. It used to be the best place for fashion inspiration before Covid—you’d see all kinds of subcultures thriving in different parts of the city. But after Covid, the variety in styles kinda disappeared…
No but for real, there's so much fun happening on those streets beyond the Breton/trench/classic white shirt aesthetic. I love the channels that do on the street style reporting and also Easy French who just happen to capture it while doing their street interviews on different topics so viewers can learn French.
“Contemporary Paris culture/aesthetics are actually really corny” && finally someone said it! And the direct result that “chic” is no longer “chic” as it’s become the most oversized buzzword on socials. Très triste !
Le Veau d'Or was the ONLY place my parents were hellbent on eating on their most recent trip. The only reservation I could get them was at 530pm but they think that's a marvelous time to have dinner so that all worked out.
this felt like kanyes verse on no more parties in la, it just kept going but never got worse. well done
-"I think it’s cool (and I think very few things are cool) and I love the song." <-- snap
-The organic glow up of Virgil (icon) and the studio birth of Doechii (plant)
- met gala always fucks and, like the masters, seems to get more energy every year
- galloway has some sharp takes but his hard left turn with swisher really ruined him for me. he's like a shark tank guy, living off of one business success to dole advice for the rest of his life.
- does the left need its own free press? no. is the free press profitable right now? doubtful
Ok I agree that Lorde's rollout is very smart from a marketing perspective (I work in marketing!) - helping her build hype for her new release, connecting with her audience 1:1, feels very ground floor in a cool way BUT I'm curious for anyone who actually went to her pop up at washington square park - all the videos I saw on TikTok were her lip-syncing vs actually singing, which seemed very underwhelming and borderline weird? I could totally be missing something though? Also I heard cops were trying to shut down so maybe she wasn't able to actually sing. But curious what other people thought?
Did seeing the music video change your mind at all? I think the idea behind the secret party was to film it as the (surprise) video, hence the lip syncing.
That's a good question. I think it is very unique that this content ended up in her music video. It made it feel like she co-created it with her audience, which is an amazing way to build fandom. Tonally, it still felt a little off to me. That particular clip of the music video felt semi-forced. I wonder for anyone who was there if it was weird or it didn't matter bc it was just so cool that she did that in the first place?
From a marketing standpoint, it's definitely hard to crack an amazing IRL experience AND get good content out of it. Often, it tends to skew towards one or the other.
With that being said, I love that she is doing something VERY different and very creative. And it got people talking, which is the ultimate goal (even if not everyone liked it!).
On a diff note, Terrence O'Connor is a hilarious follow on TikTok. I'm obsessed with his weekly cultural digests.
I know that she did a performance at an award show (I’m blanking which one and don’t have time to look it up but I want to say VMAs?) where she was sick so she danced to her record without singing so I feel like it’s a move she’s done before and therefore feels familiar! And she has such a cool and unique voice but very low register which could be hard to hear well without good gear at the park
I have a fashion trend question that isn't related to today's newsletter but since we have Rachel here...It feels like STAUD is really having a moment, at least in my millennial mom circles, why do you think that is? Semi related question - I also think Tuckernuck has a chokehold on my (more Southern skewing) circles. Why do you think that is?
I personally love their emails, the way they curate clothing, their house label and the labels they offer. It seems they have found a way to create a different online shopping experience that is more persona based? But maybe there are many versions of Tuckernucks for different types of people/demographics that I haven't heard of?
Does feel that way about Staud, doesn't it? Great price point, first of all. Good retail distribution. Google would suggest a meaty investment in search ads. (Something that also really worked for Khaite.) Very approachable clothes. Powerful/influential designer.
And Tuckernuck is successful for similar reasons: nice price point. Good digital strategy. Relatable, classic clothes. Everyone is fantasizing about Nantucket these days but not everyone wants to look like a coastal grandma. (In part because it's not practical.)
I would argue that places like Oroboro or La Garconne in New York speak to a slightly snobby, intellectual woman with disposable income. MAC in San Francisco is for the last few people who moved there to feel like they're in Europe. Ikram is a VERY Chicago view of luxury. Stores have always had personalities, though e-commerce flattened that. Now we're seeing that come back, I think -- and Tuckernuck is the rare one making it happen online.
Yes, it seems Staud's + Tuckernuck's pricepoints are somewhere in the middle - not high end designer but not J. Crew either. Staud's clothes aren't stuffy to your point about being approachable, and they feel mostly timeless with a little splash of fun, which makes you feel like you can wear them for years/worth spending a bit more. Maybe they're also benefiting from the micro-trend backlash.
I totally agree that a store allows for an experience whereas e-commerce got stripped of that. For example, it seems that everyone loves Shopbop but I truly loathe the user experience. Tuckernuck definitely knows their audience very well, which I think contributes to their ability to having a personality. It essentially feels like the founders made a store/experience for themselves (in the best way). Excited to check out the other stores you mentioned!
interesting framing 'Does the left need its own The Free Press?'. I don't think it is an explicit rightwing operation to the likes of DW, Breitbart etc, . Writers like Tyler Cowen and Coleman Hughes are as rational and moderate as they come.
Or is it more of having an actually moderate leftwing pov vs. the slates, salons, jezebels, etc. that are overly partisan?
I would love to read writers all in one place vigorously and provocatively arguing for (for example) DEI programs, political correctness and affirmative action. Not because that's what I think, but because I think counterprogramming is important.
can't you find that on nyt, slate, salon, jezebel, npr, cnn, etc? I guess put another way isn't what you are asking for already exist? and was the default before the creation of TFP?
I certainly don’t because the news outlets you mention are committed to reporting without bias and serving a broad audience, not advancing an agenda or point of view. (Whether they do that or not is not the point.)
right, ok this is a bit circular now but 'reporting without bias and serving broad audience' would also describe TFP then right? taken directly from their About page:
Independence
We are proudly not a political monolith. Independence isn’t just a journalistic value for us; it’s also fundamental to the way we are building our business.
salon explicitly mentions liberal and progressive views:
Salon is a spirited home for journalism that takes a critical look at current events, seeks alternatives to the status quo, engages with big ideas and holds power to account. Embracing a wide range of liberal and progressive views, we cover the arts and culture with rigor and insight, champion social progress and, with our digital community, lead good-faith debates about the stuff that really matters. We question authority and assumptions, starting with our own.
This is akin to when there was convo a few months ago about how the left needs a left-wing response to JRE or that there aren't enough left-leaning podcasts as if Crooked Media isn't a huge hit where their podcasts routinely are in the top downloads list. Ezra Klein has a podcast, etc. there's tons out there
That may be how TFP describes itself -- but nonetheless its positioning is very "Salon des Refusés of the liberal media." And I may have missed it, but has TFP published something like a defense of including your pronouns in an email?
I'd love to see an outlet for points of view that don't feel at home in TFP, but which also suggests Salon doesn't go far enough. (I mean, when's the last time a piece from Salon made a splash of the kind TFP makes?)
Have you read the Tangle newsletter at all? I quite like it—especially because I don’t always agree with the pov—and the way both sides of an argument are aggregated is well done
the newsletter crossover of my dreams
💋
“Why are so many celebrities (Katy Perry, Lizzo, Taylor Swift) stuck in a 2017 concept of feminism?” I cackleddd - but truly .
Yes and yet…. How!!
The bar has been raised & they can’t keep up with the shift. It’s not just “ I feel empowered” anymore it’s “ How do we collectively dismantle oppressive systems” and that’s a little too deep for their marketing.
Free the nipple and the bush!
can someone explain what the 2025 concept of feminism is?
What part of “collectively dismantling oppressive systems” didn’t hit for you, Matthew?
that's a word salad. explain to me like i'm a 9th grader
it's "oppressive systems" that I'm struggling with. Can you identify three?
I’d love to help you out . 1. Neocolonialism 2. White Supremacy and 3. Of course, The Patriarchy.
interesting. imho 1 and 2 are boogeymen and 3 is just the result of god's creation, there is no other path, these are natural outcomes not determined by man.
in summary, I don't think this is what 2025 feminism is about, but what do i know.
Hahahahahaha oh to be a white male in this world
1. I've got the butterworths tea
2. Contemporary French aesthetics are SO cheugy.. nobody talks about how cool/diverse/experimental Parisian street style really is. Having lived there for years the only people embracing "french girl vibes" are Americans
1. I've read everything published about Butterworth's (including Emily's dispatch) -- but I want a restaurant critic to go and tell me about the food (Like when Graydon sent a reporter to review Trump's steakhouse....)
2. Cheugy is just the word.
Yeah you’re right why has nobody gone……
Eater DC needs to do more reporting on the partisan stakehouses.
Tamzin… how would you like to be on the clock this weekend
If the people need to be fed, I am here to serve 🫡👊🇺🇸🔥
To address 2. I would argue that of the major fashion cities (imo still nyc london paris milan tokyo), paris is actually the least experimental and diverse (milan arguably might be similar) - there's still very much a 'parisian style' (all black/dark blue, brands like apc balibaris officine generale etc). The idea of "french girl vibes" (think beret and mariniere) is definitely all americans, but parisians very much stick to their uniform for the most part.
Do we think Tokyo is the GOAT when it comes to experimenting? I feel like London is good at this too, but also a lot of fun is happening in Mexico as well as LATAM.
Been living in Tokyo for eight years. It used to be the best place for fashion inspiration before Covid—you’d see all kinds of subcultures thriving in different parts of the city. But after Covid, the variety in styles kinda disappeared…
Interesting, do you think it was isolation/pandemic making people fell less inclined to experiment or people aging out?
Inflation causing lower consumption and a stay-at-home lifestyle after pandemic are key reasons
Thanks for responding. This is actually really insightful.
What a good question
I wrote about butterworths last year! I was there for opening weekend lmao
Omg which post? #needthat
No but for real, there's so much fun happening on those streets beyond the Breton/trench/classic white shirt aesthetic. I love the channels that do on the street style reporting and also Easy French who just happen to capture it while doing their street interviews on different topics so viewers can learn French.
“Contemporary Paris culture/aesthetics are actually really corny” && finally someone said it! And the direct result that “chic” is no longer “chic” as it’s become the most oversized buzzword on socials. Très triste !
One of my ongoing fist-banging-on-the-table takes is that we have completely lost the meaning of the word "chic."
how would you define it and how are folks missing it?
I wrote about it a few years ago: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-week/a41380589/bottega-veneta-ss23-bally-ferragamo/ but I have more to say and will probably revisit the topic!
i'll pour over this, to me chic is not everything, but it is a lot. and im a straight as they cum male. uttering the word is so cringy to me.
“ BIG SILKY FLOWY MINIMALIST ARMANI LAYERS TRANSPARENCY,”
Ready for a diaphanous summer
Me too I wanna look like an old timey ghost
The Times profiled Galloway in 2022! I'm sure there will be more closer to his next book release https://www.nytimes.com/2022/08/02/style/scott-galloway.html
I profiled Galloway in 2020 https://www.fastcompany.com/90451794/scott-galloway-pivots-to-stardom
Can't wait to hear what you think of the book. It's a whole different world for him now.
I actually don’t mind him. He seems super aware that he’s a narcissist and seems to try and use it for the betterment of others lol
100% agree
Also, I don't think he's a misogynist. He's an imperfect feminist, but who isn't.
Le Veau d'Or was the ONLY place my parents were hellbent on eating on their most recent trip. The only reservation I could get them was at 530pm but they think that's a marvelous time to have dinner so that all worked out.
They had an excellent time.
I love to hear it 🩷
this felt like kanyes verse on no more parties in la, it just kept going but never got worse. well done
-"I think it’s cool (and I think very few things are cool) and I love the song." <-- snap
-The organic glow up of Virgil (icon) and the studio birth of Doechii (plant)
- met gala always fucks and, like the masters, seems to get more energy every year
- galloway has some sharp takes but his hard left turn with swisher really ruined him for me. he's like a shark tank guy, living off of one business success to dole advice for the rest of his life.
- does the left need its own free press? no. is the free press profitable right now? doubtful
Ok I agree that Lorde's rollout is very smart from a marketing perspective (I work in marketing!) - helping her build hype for her new release, connecting with her audience 1:1, feels very ground floor in a cool way BUT I'm curious for anyone who actually went to her pop up at washington square park - all the videos I saw on TikTok were her lip-syncing vs actually singing, which seemed very underwhelming and borderline weird? I could totally be missing something though? Also I heard cops were trying to shut down so maybe she wasn't able to actually sing. But curious what other people thought?
Did seeing the music video change your mind at all? I think the idea behind the secret party was to film it as the (surprise) video, hence the lip syncing.
That's a good question. I think it is very unique that this content ended up in her music video. It made it feel like she co-created it with her audience, which is an amazing way to build fandom. Tonally, it still felt a little off to me. That particular clip of the music video felt semi-forced. I wonder for anyone who was there if it was weird or it didn't matter bc it was just so cool that she did that in the first place?
From a marketing standpoint, it's definitely hard to crack an amazing IRL experience AND get good content out of it. Often, it tends to skew towards one or the other.
With that being said, I love that she is doing something VERY different and very creative. And it got people talking, which is the ultimate goal (even if not everyone liked it!).
On a diff note, Terrence O'Connor is a hilarious follow on TikTok. I'm obsessed with his weekly cultural digests.
I know that she did a performance at an award show (I’m blanking which one and don’t have time to look it up but I want to say VMAs?) where she was sick so she danced to her record without singing so I feel like it’s a move she’s done before and therefore feels familiar! And she has such a cool and unique voice but very low register which could be hard to hear well without good gear at the park
Lorde summer is a GREAT way of naming the fall of nightlife in major cities around the world
Dreeeeaaam to see this in my inbox
love Rachel's takes but this song is so bad, man. super generic pop...
I have a fashion trend question that isn't related to today's newsletter but since we have Rachel here...It feels like STAUD is really having a moment, at least in my millennial mom circles, why do you think that is? Semi related question - I also think Tuckernuck has a chokehold on my (more Southern skewing) circles. Why do you think that is?
I personally love their emails, the way they curate clothing, their house label and the labels they offer. It seems they have found a way to create a different online shopping experience that is more persona based? But maybe there are many versions of Tuckernucks for different types of people/demographics that I haven't heard of?
Does feel that way about Staud, doesn't it? Great price point, first of all. Good retail distribution. Google would suggest a meaty investment in search ads. (Something that also really worked for Khaite.) Very approachable clothes. Powerful/influential designer.
And Tuckernuck is successful for similar reasons: nice price point. Good digital strategy. Relatable, classic clothes. Everyone is fantasizing about Nantucket these days but not everyone wants to look like a coastal grandma. (In part because it's not practical.)
I would argue that places like Oroboro or La Garconne in New York speak to a slightly snobby, intellectual woman with disposable income. MAC in San Francisco is for the last few people who moved there to feel like they're in Europe. Ikram is a VERY Chicago view of luxury. Stores have always had personalities, though e-commerce flattened that. Now we're seeing that come back, I think -- and Tuckernuck is the rare one making it happen online.
Very interesting, thank you!!!
Yes, it seems Staud's + Tuckernuck's pricepoints are somewhere in the middle - not high end designer but not J. Crew either. Staud's clothes aren't stuffy to your point about being approachable, and they feel mostly timeless with a little splash of fun, which makes you feel like you can wear them for years/worth spending a bit more. Maybe they're also benefiting from the micro-trend backlash.
I totally agree that a store allows for an experience whereas e-commerce got stripped of that. For example, it seems that everyone loves Shopbop but I truly loathe the user experience. Tuckernuck definitely knows their audience very well, which I think contributes to their ability to having a personality. It essentially feels like the founders made a store/experience for themselves (in the best way). Excited to check out the other stores you mentioned!
Thanks again!
interesting framing 'Does the left need its own The Free Press?'. I don't think it is an explicit rightwing operation to the likes of DW, Breitbart etc, . Writers like Tyler Cowen and Coleman Hughes are as rational and moderate as they come.
Or is it more of having an actually moderate leftwing pov vs. the slates, salons, jezebels, etc. that are overly partisan?
I would love to read writers all in one place vigorously and provocatively arguing for (for example) DEI programs, political correctness and affirmative action. Not because that's what I think, but because I think counterprogramming is important.
can't you find that on nyt, slate, salon, jezebel, npr, cnn, etc? I guess put another way isn't what you are asking for already exist? and was the default before the creation of TFP?
I certainly don’t because the news outlets you mention are committed to reporting without bias and serving a broad audience, not advancing an agenda or point of view. (Whether they do that or not is not the point.)
right, ok this is a bit circular now but 'reporting without bias and serving broad audience' would also describe TFP then right? taken directly from their About page:
Independence
We are proudly not a political monolith. Independence isn’t just a journalistic value for us; it’s also fundamental to the way we are building our business.
salon explicitly mentions liberal and progressive views:
Salon is a spirited home for journalism that takes a critical look at current events, seeks alternatives to the status quo, engages with big ideas and holds power to account. Embracing a wide range of liberal and progressive views, we cover the arts and culture with rigor and insight, champion social progress and, with our digital community, lead good-faith debates about the stuff that really matters. We question authority and assumptions, starting with our own.
This is akin to when there was convo a few months ago about how the left needs a left-wing response to JRE or that there aren't enough left-leaning podcasts as if Crooked Media isn't a huge hit where their podcasts routinely are in the top downloads list. Ezra Klein has a podcast, etc. there's tons out there
That may be how TFP describes itself -- but nonetheless its positioning is very "Salon des Refusés of the liberal media." And I may have missed it, but has TFP published something like a defense of including your pronouns in an email?
I'd love to see an outlet for points of view that don't feel at home in TFP, but which also suggests Salon doesn't go far enough. (I mean, when's the last time a piece from Salon made a splash of the kind TFP makes?)
Just looked back in the archives and I did miss this: https://www.thefp.com/p/pronouns-with-john-mcwhorter But! I still believe my point stands.
Have you read the Tangle newsletter at all? I quite like it—especially because I don’t always agree with the pov—and the way both sides of an argument are aggregated is well done
Oh this is what it’s ALL ABOUT thank you Jesus thank you feed me thank you Rachel
😎😎😎😎
The 2017 concept of feminism is an epidemic among the Hollywood masses, I fear.