Good afternoon, everyone.
The downside of this gloomy time of year is the lack of sun, which I’ve supplemented with the Westman Atelier Sun Tone Glow Drops. The upside is the kabocha squash toast at ABC Kitchen, which I had last night at a window seat. I have to say, that place holds up after 16 years.
Today’s newsletter includes: Page Six’s new editor is proof that 2026 was the year of the party reporter, drama in the yogurt aisle (and perhaps on Harvard’s campus), a case for heading to Chinatown for Thanksgiving, there’s no rib meat in a McRib, Nantucket’s most expensive home sale, the most crowded event in New York last night was at David Zwirner, and Martine Rose heads to Balenciaga.
Nothing says Thanksgiving like a Peking turkey. By J Lee.
Expense Account is a series on Feed Me by semi-anonymous restaurant critic J Lee. He hosts a podcast with the same name. This week, he suggests taking a walk to your city’s Chinatown and considering a Peking turkey for the holiday season.
It’s November, I can’t believe it. At the first annual Feed Me Pie Contest, I had my first taste of pumpkin spice in the form of a smokey, almost savory pumpkin pie by Dinner Party in Clinton Hill, and let me tell you, it hit (they won). Also at the pie contest, I heard my first Christmas song of the season, Ariana Grande’s “Santa Tell Me,” which officially marked the beginning of the holiday season; I’m ready.
To help you prepare for this holiday season, I’ve got a hot Thanksgiving tip for you. It’s two words: Peking Turkey. A Peking Turkey is a turkey that has been cooked in the style of a Peking Duck, and it’s the best turkey I’ve ever had. It’s brined and marinated in Chinese spices, it’s juicy and flavorful, roasted, with glossy skin that shatters on impact. It’s American fusion cuisine at its finest. It almost brings a tear to my eye. Chinese immigrants found a way to make turkey actually taste good, they found a way to make turkey fun. Thanksgiving will never be the same.
“The hardest thing about buying a Peking Turkey is not buying a Peking Duck instead. Yes, duck is superior in every way to turkey, but traditions are nice.”
Last year I went to Hutong on Thanksgiving Day to try their Peking Turkey. At Hutong, they put on a little show with your turkey. For some reason, they light it on fire, tableside. I think the idea is that it makes the skin crispier. I’m not convinced, but the turkey is delicious. It’s the ideal turkey. The white and the dark meat are both so moist and flavorful, and it’s served with classic Peking Duck accoutrement. Wrapped in a handmade pancake, cranberry sauce in lieu of hoisin, with a little bit of scallion, and a little bit of cucumber, it’s the perfect Thanksgiving bite. You won’t even miss the mashed potatoes.