21% of Feed Me readers aren't shopping this fall.
21% of Feed Me readers aren't shopping this fall.
The results of Feed Me's fall fashion survey are in.
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I don’t consider myself someone who actively participates in fashion. I don’t really shop, and my closet takes up a small portion of my headspace. This is mostly because I’ve built a fall wardrobe that I really love (great jeans, great cashmere sweaters, good sneakers and heels). However, I study the industries that shape how fashion plays a role in culture quite closely. I’m fascinated by how people spend money, how they write about getting dressed, what they consider to be relevant style news, and what consumers react to.
Last month, I sent out a survey to Feed Me readers to get a sense of how they’re thinking about consumption (of clothes and style news) going into fall. There were 118 respondents based primarily in New York. Some standout learnings include:
34% of respondents credit Substack as their main source of fashion content and inspiration — but almost half of those respondents are simultaneously frustrated with the way the topic is covered.
13 respondents name dropped Puck’s Lauren Sherman as a trustworthy source of fashion coverage.
There’s a big divide in how Feed Me readers think about shopping for fall. For every, “I'm tired of pretending it's normal that everyone seems to be buying things all the time,” there was a respondent whose mom was buying them a $2k coat.
25% of respondents said their plans for fall involve staying staying home or watching TV in bed.
I now present to you: a really fun survey about how 118 people are thinking about getting dressed. I guess it’s worth noting that these are opinions I find interesting, and don’t necessarily reflect my own.
When I asked where people were getting their fashion content and inspiration from, five people wrote, “the streets.” Here’s what those five people said about the current state of fashion journalism:
“I like
’s archival reporting. I like . I like the focus on what ordinary smart ladies walking to coffee are wearing. I want people to stop shopping at Zara, or fast fashion-ing. That's the problem that needs to be solved.”“A lot of the work is fantastically researched and packaged, and a lot of the work is crap. (So much hyperbole! Every trend cannot be “the most iconic trend ever,” that’s not how words work.) And there’s not enough interrogation around systems of prettiness built by pretty people, or people who never got to be pretty and can’t move past that (very real) injustice. We’ve got to stop talking about “diversity” and start talking about acceptance, which is a deeply, deeply different practice. And people, including me, have limited patience to read any more. That puts a real dent in people’s output and in media company’s investments. We need to retrain people how to engage with words and ideas.”
“Honestly I love it. It feels more democratic than ever thanks to the internet.
is a stone cold genius, is fab, The Sartorialist is still taking amazing street photos. It feels like the landscape is getting a bit oversaturated, but I think the writers and journalists who put care and time into their work will rise to the top.“
“There are only a few people who qualify as fashion journalists anymore. Lauren Sherman, Rachel Tashjian, Vanessa Friedman, Robin Givhan, Rachel Strugatz (beauty), Cathy Horyn,
. Not an exhaustive list, but when I think of so many others they become victims of the commerce machine or publishing (no fault of their own) and it slowly strips them of their voice. Again, not exhaustive!!!”“It’s becoming more obsolete.”
Here’s what the rest of respondents are feeling about the state of fashion journalism:
“Makes me sick.”
“The conversation is weirder and better than ever, you just have to know where to listen.”
“There aren't many honest opinions anymore. Everything revolves around sales, and true opinions are suppressed.”
“It's never been a better time to be a compulsive shopper with a high six-figure income.”
“I don't really pay attention to legacy fashion journalism, but it's kind of wild how even on Substack most fashion journalism is just about buying new things. Often really expensive things! Who the fuck can afford The Row??? Even if you make six figures, why are you spending any of that on plastic shoes made by Mary Kate and Ashley? Some people might scoff at me saying "six figures" — I know there are plenty of people for whom the low end of that feels like chump change. But most of my friends are making $80k and shopping at Beacon's Closet (and we're all in our 30s.)”
“I miss Man Repeller (is that bad to say?)”
“I think there are people doing the Lord’s work—Rachel Tashjian at The Washington Post,
on her Substack, on her Substack, Steff Yotka at SSENSE, Rian Phin’s presence—but in terms of overall publications, it’s looking a little sad. It doesn’t feel like fashion journalism is setting the trends anymore as much as reporting on what has already been worn out on a TikTok cycle. The lack of story—a sense of history, of references, of an eye—behind the writing about what we wear and what we should wear is a little sad (but I have hope, I always do).”“I am enjoying the variety (diversity in perspectives, identities, and price points) and accessibility (free and paid Substacks). I know I am missing a ton of inspiration by not being on Instagram but had to break up — I was spending too much time on there and not feeling fulfilled. I am loving Substack, and it brings me back to the old email days when we'd write each other long messages. As someone who is 47, I am interested in seeing more women my age in fashion. For the first time I am asking myself (not frequently) "am I too old for this" and while I don't prescribe to these sort of ageist, sexist rules, I do wonder at times whether I am drawn to something because it reminds me of something I used to be or feel or if I am genuinely interested in it.”
“I’m POOR! I can't pay all these Substack subscriptions! We have to find another way to pay the writers!!!”
“I find myself really into blogs with LINKS. It’s frustrating to see something I really love on Instagram, and have no idea where to find it. I don’t want to spend more time on my phone searching for a clothing item. Therefore, I’m getting pulled toward the blogs that link every piece shown. I then get to discover new brands which is also fun as the cycle of tried and old is no longer fun.
is great, even though I don’t style my outfits like her at all, and I love emails.”“Needs more psychedelics, less consumption, stop fitting in.”
“Honestly I think the migration of serious fashion reporting from big outlets with traditional advertisers to new media is a net-positive, and results in more freedom/candid writing. I love Lauren Sherman,
, and . And then for more pop-y features, I feel like W Mag and Interview are both really knocking it out of the park creating fun, interesting, thoughtful coverage (the bigger legacy names like ELLE, Vogue, etc. - not so much.)”I asked how your ideal selves would be dressing this fall, and the responses were so discombobulated that I made a word cloud to best illustrate the results:
11% of you work in finance. Here’s how you said you’d be getting dressed this fall:
“If Miu Miu, Carolyn Kennedy and Cher had a child. Definitely leaning more into vintage designer pieces. Most recently I've purchased vintage Prada cashmere tank tops, a pair of Prada suede knee high boots, a bunch of Toteme button downs, a vintage chrome Gucci belt, and a lace black slip dress with beaded detailing (all from The Real Real) so that's the vibe currently! I also would like to be wearing suede micro shorts with tights, a mule heel and some sort of sheer silk turtleneck.”
“Some days like an Armani menswear campaign from the 70s: oversized power suit worn over a Loro Piana cashmere turtleneck. Other days, a primary red mohair sweater with beautiful blue jeans and white Common Projects.”
“If I can be put together for work in a way that makes me feel confident and comfortable, that’s a win. I will preferably be dressing in layers as this weather has been giving me whiplash. Ideally I am also playing with texture and pattern more, I would love a suede bag or jacket but I am also seeing those everywhere which puts me off a bit.”
“I can’t get boho Sienna Miller out of my head. I want to feel whimsical and feminine but put together in a New York kind of way. In another light, I want to buy COLOR. I’m one who buys something and wears it until I can’t look at it any longer—so lots of basic colors reside in my closet. There’s a red sweater that Chloe Fineman wore in a post recently that I need stat and will plan to wear over a white tee just like she did.” (I found Chloe’s La Ligne sweater, here.)
“I'm really feeling very obvious but here goes: chore coats, which I intend to layer over other jackets/sweaters to look a little different. I was inspired by weed delivery people on bikes wearing multiple jackets. Next in line with the 80's preppy look, a shocker, rugby shirts. What can I say? And lots of corduroy, scarves and big jewelry. I know a lot of fashion girls favor small delicate jewelry but I'm not that person. And last but not least, pumpkin spice.”
How are Feed Me readers spending their money on shopping this fall?
“I need some work bags that aren’t just a basic Tumi or Longchamp and can actually look stylish and fit in my stuff. I might buy a couple so I would say up to $1000 all together.”
“I need another watch in the rotation. I’m looking at the $5-10k range.”
“Perhaps a nylon Prada crossbody. Over $2,000.”
“I will be buying these boots and I have no idea how much they cost.”
“TBD. Eyeing some Dorsey (under $1K), and maybe a new jacket (under $500).”
21% of respondents said they’re not buying anything for fall. Here’s what else they said:
“No, I am a normal person who pays her own rent and has an arts salary and no trust fund. I'm tired of pretending it's normal that everyone seems to be buying all these expensive things all the time. It's weird how much everyone is shopping and I am not afraid to say it!”
“No I don’t want to invest too much in clothes right now because I’m taking semaglutide and my clothing sizes are changing.”
“No! I am leaving New York for good after the new year and I know that the trend cycle of New York is unlike reality and the things I think I’ll wear in NYC (or what is “trendy” here) will never get worn once I leave.”
“No big purchases this fall - mostly due to the fact that I'm unemployed at the moment, but partly because I've felt overwhelmed with choice and recently listened to an old Monocycle episode with
, Shopping Can Trap You."
People are not going out the way they used to. The most common responses I got for people’s fall nightlife plans involved bed and wine:
“Is it cheugy to say in front of my TV with a candle?”
“In bed. This summer did me in.”
“At the symphony. Fall is for gowns as much as sweaters.”
“If I’m being really honest with myself, probably the movie theater more than drinking. This was a fun summer, but I’m tired!!!”
“In my mf bed or kitchen, either writing or cooking. Not tryna catch NOTHING (a boyfriend, Covid, or a thread).”
“Most nights, probably at home with my kids. At 44, I've gotten the itch to hit the club lately, so I'll be trying to do more that.”
“My nightlife is an early dinner and chilling with my husband and kids.”
“Dancing without a bag, dinners in homes.”
“In bars drinking lagers, preferably a pool table even though I hardly play as much as I used to.”
“My usual: gay nightclubs when I want to listen to a good DJ and dance. More often: warm dive bars or a friend's place with a beer. Special occasions: cocktail bar with someone to kiss.”
“In an apartment. Fall is all about day drinking outside and then going home with friends with the windows open, whether it’s a dinner party or takeout or just drinks, that’s the vibe.”
Those of you who are going out said we can find you at:
* indicates dancing
Long Island Bar (Cobble Hill)
Bar Contra (Lower East Side, two people said this)
Black Mountain Wine House (Boerum Hill, three people said this)
King Cole Bar (Midtown)
Emmett’s on Grove (West Village)
Smithereens (East Village)
Jean’s (NoHo)*
Casa Cipriani (Financial District)
Eel Bar (Lower East Side)
Nightmoves (Williamsburg)*
Public Records (Boerum Hill, two people said this)*
Sharlene’s (Prospect Heights)
Bar Madonna (Williamsburg)
Gabriela (Williamsburg, two people said this)*
Joyface (Alphabet City)*
Margot (Fort Greene)
Handcraft (Kips Bay, especially good for Liverpool games)
Twins Lounge (Greenpoint)
Monkey Bar (Midtown)
Paragon (Bushwick)*
Minetta Tavern (Greenwich Village, submitter included that it “just feels right in the fall and winter.”)
The River (Chinatown, three people said this)
Rhodora (Fort Greene)
Casanara (Clinton Hill)*
F&F (Carroll Gardens)
Early Terrible (Lower East Side)*
And one person said, “Bemelman’s at 3pm and then home in bed before 9pm.” I would love to know what they do for a living!
When I asked about trends readers are tired of:
“No more crop tops at work. I work in a casual office and I am surprised by how many crop tops I see and have seen for a while now. People look like they are going to Prospect Park to drink hard seltzers with their pals and pups.” (This is a wild insult)
“Fucking low rise dawg fr fr”
“Big Pants + Big Shirt + Salomons + Bisexual Italian dad vibes on Gen-z cis dudes.”
“I can't think of a trend that bothers me.”
“Pornstaches.”
“Not necessarily a trend, but I’m so tired of seeing influencers do ‘office inspiration outfits’ that seriously could never be worn in an office setting. I can't wear a mini mini skirt or a micro cropped top in 3WTC. bffr.”
“I love, own some, and respect these brands, and this isn't really about the brands per se, but about the way they're talked about online. The Khaite/Toteme/The Row triumvirate is near ubiquitous, and I can't say I've seen any creators inspire with their interpretations the way Brian Molloy's lookbooks do. And at this stage in the affiliate link/TikTok Shop-ification of everything, seeing creators push them and knowing the commission rates must be astronomical is sort of like ... not that different from the creators being sales associates for Shein.”
“Ballet flats. I want shoes that can withstand the world.”
This survey was entirely anonymous, but I want to thank everyone who put so much effort into the responses here. And thank you to everyone who reads Feed Me! Putting together a letter like this, and making it free to everyone, wouldn’t have been possible without paying Feed Me readers.
I’m so curious to know how many responders work from home. For me, the combo of working from home for 4+ years and trying to eat/drink more at home to benefit both health and wallet has obliterated my personal style. When the only inspo you get is online, it’s so hard not to fall into the trend trough. Or give in to buying more and more matching sweatsuits (ugh).
"People look like they are going to Prospect Park to drink hard seltzers with their pals and pups."
this is a fucking bar lmao